Last Updated on September 16, 2022
The first step to re-facing your frizzen is to properly harden it. When your frizzen is too soft to reliably ignite powder, it will require re-hardening or replacement. There are several ways to harden your frizzen. Listed below are some of the most common methods. When you’re done, your frizzen should perform as efficiently as it did when it was brand new.
Traditionally, case hardening is performed by heating a metal object to a non-magnetic temperature. The metal is then carbonized by diffusing the carbon into the surface. The iron object is placed in an airtight container containing a carbon bed and held at high temperatures. Afterwards, it is quenched in oil. You can find more information on case hardening in different sources.
In the past, frizzens were case hardened using high carbon steel to prevent rust. This method was inefficient, costly, and time-consuming. Today, a similar process is known as through hardening. Here are some important steps to harden a frizzen:
The process of hardening a frizzen involves adding carbon to the metal. Low carbon steel can be hardened by adding Casenit or Cherry Red. Once the part reaches a red-orange temperature, carbon is added to the metal and allowed to cool over the next night in coals. A frizzen cannot be hardened by tempering. If it is too soft, it must be replaced.
The process of carburization involves the diffusion of carbon atoms into the metal’s surface layers. Metals contain a metallic crystalline lattice of tightly bound atoms. Carbon atoms diffuse into the metal crystalline structure, where they react with the elements of the host metal. At higher temperatures, these carbon molecules harden steel and other metals. However, this process requires a high level of carbon in order to be effective.
A frizzen is historically referred to as a “hammer” or “steel”. It is a forged steel piece, hinged at the front. It is attached to a flash pan by a leaf spring that holds it in the open or closed position. The frizzen contains a small priming charge of black powder. When the frizzen is hardened, the spark will be more powerful.
When you want to harden your frizzen, you can follow a few basic steps. To begin, heat the frizzen to 650 degrees Fahrenheit. This will draw back some of the hardness and make it slid easily over other parts. Once the frizzen is at this temperature, it will need to be drawn back in an oven. However, you should remember that drawing back does not mean annealing. It simply means bringing the temper of the frizzen to a point of resilience and spark well.
You should keep a spare frizzen as well, so that you can easily repair your rifle if it becomes damaged. This will save you money, since the re-faced frizzen will have a fresh carbon steel face. This will ensure that your frizzen will last for many thousands of shots. However, if you are concerned about the safety of re-faced frizzens, you should be aware of the potential hazards and risks associated with them.
If you’re afraid of sparks, you can get re-faced frizzens. Just remember to make sure they are made of carbon type steel. If not, the steel may not spark, and you’ll end up with de-carbonized steel. This is one of the main reasons why re-faced frizzens are important. It’s also an effective method for reducing sparks.
Hacksaw blades can be made from various materials depending on the type of metal they will be used for. For heavy-duty cutting jobs, you may want to choose a blade with 18 teeth per inch. A 24 tooth per inch blade will work well for medium-duty cutting jobs and a 32 tooth per inch blade will cut light metals. You can also choose a thin ribbon hacksaw blade from Brownells for extra strength.
Traditionally, frizzens were made from case-hardened steel. Modern versions may be made from any hardenable steel, and rehardening them may leave them “pink” in color. To reharden a frizzen, you can apply a case hardening compound, like Kasenit, with a butane torch or with water. Be sure to keep the heat source and can of oil away from the saw blade while you are rehardening.
In the 1800s, Krags were made with parts case-hardened with cyanide paste. This chemical is composed of carbon, nitrogen, and oxygen, and can be easily added to the Kasenit part that needs extra hardening. While hydrogen cyanide is deadly, the other forms are unlikely to react with acids or alkali. This chemical can also be applied to other metals such as copper or brass.
To apply the kasenit to a frizzen, you must first heat it with a torch. Then, place the frizzen into the small container with kasenit in it. Heat the vertical part of the frizzen until it hardens. Then, place it face down and cover it with the kasenit compound. Repeat the procedure two more times to ensure a deep hardening.
Kasenit is a brand of steel that has a thin layer of SODIUM CYANIDE on the surface. The SDS hardens a frizzen by repeatedly heating it over 1450deg F. The frizzen is usually supplied in a case that was already slightly hardened, but with repeated firing the owner has quickly worn through the case.
There are several safety precautions when hardening a frizzien. The first is the removal of carbon from the steel. This is especially important when hardening frizzens. Water quenched steel sparks more intensely than case-hardened steel and prevents the parts from losing carbon. Secondly, hardening a frizzen with oil is dangerous since oil can cause a fire hazard if it leaks.
The angle of the flint is crucial when hardening a frizzen. The flint must be angled properly in the jaws to generate good sparks. Also, the upper part of a frizzen is used for opening the pan, but not for creating sparks. The lower part is where hot sparks are created, so the lower part must be sharp. After hardening a frizzen, it is necessary to polish it to make it as sharp as new.
About The Author
Mindy Vu is a part time shoe model and professional mum. She loves to cook and has been proclaimed the best cook in the world by her friends and family. She adores her pet dog Twinkie, and is happily married to her books.